Article and Photos: Jason Mowen
Small-group travel is a thing right now, with all manner of chefs, fashionistas and designers, as well as tour operators, offering jaunts to colourful corners of the globe. Cooking in Sicily? Sure. Trekking in the Himalayas? No problem. Shopping in the souks of Marrakech? They’ve got you covered. The groups, though, are often not that small – think 12-20 – or the trip will set you back many thousands of dollars. Per day.
A year or so ago, I launched a new travel website, The Pursuit Of, looking at the world through the lens of art, design and culture, with the view of hosting small-group travel somewhere down the metaphorical road. In the meantime, the goal was to create a beautiful and atmospheric online platform for destination guides, interviews and stories.
Sometime later, friends of mine travelled to Vietnam with a high-end tour operator and returned somewhat disappointed, not with the place – they loved Vietnam – but with the generic nature of the tour itself. Then I travelled to Kuala Lumpur for the first time, to put together a destination guide for an online magazine, falling head over heels for Malaysia along the way. My friend and neighbour here in Murrurundi, the gallerist Michael Reid, then got wind of my abstract idea to host small-group tours. “You have to do this,” he told me over the phone. “Don’t overthink it, just design the first trip back to Malaysia while it’s fresh in your mind. Your photos looked amazing and most Australians I know have never been there.”
I spent a month researching and making the necessary reservations, and settled on hosting a maximum of eight guests. Limousine transfers, sumptuous accommodation in design-centric hotels, quirky cultural outings, life-changing gastronomical experiences, from street food to the darlings of Michelin, including wine and cocktail pairing – and my undivided attention – for $900 a day. There was just one problem. Australians are not that sold on Malaysia.
They should be: Malaysia is not only one of the loveliest but also one of the most underrated spots in Asia. Take Kuala Lumpur, a fabulously cosmopolitan city less chaotic than Bangkok and a hundred times more succulent than Singapore. Alongside a Bladerunner-worthy skyline that includes the dazzling Petronas Twin Towers and Merdeka 118, the second-tallest skyscraper on the planet, the Malaysian capital retains an enormous amount of colonial-era architecture, as do George Town and Malacca. In fact, many films are shot at least in part in Malaysia, to evoke what no longer exists in Thailand (Anna and the King), Vietnam (Indochine) and Singapore (Crazy Rich Asians). At once charming and beguiling, it’s a city being redefined by a young and dynamic pool of creative talent, especially around food.
Much of the fault lies with Malaysia itself. This laid-back, cultural melting pot of a nation is too relaxed to market itself like its more mercantile neighbours. But therein lies the charm: when you’re there on the ground, it feels delightfully under the radar.
The first trip unfolded in January – a smashing success. A second Malaysia trip is set for 11-22 March and there are still a couple of places available – for anyone in need of a last-minute adventure – with other trips to Rome, Puglia, Morocco and Istanbul slated for the second half of 2024.
We begin at Else, an architecturally striking boutique hotel in Chinatown. Else occupies the just-renovated Lee Rubber Building that was, when it was completed in 1930, the tallest building in Kuala Lumpur. It marries Art Deco charm with industrial-chic interior architecture, executed by the all-female team Studio Bikin. A sophisticated palette and stellar art collection – not to mention rooftop pool affording sensational views of the KL skyline – make it difficult to leave. That is until you realise some of the best restaurants, bars and boutiques are on the doorstep, alongside the city’s oldest temples: Indian, Chinese and Malay. We drop into mid-century mosques, a sensational museum devoted to Islamic art and the city’s slickest rooftop bar, with bang-on views of Petronas Towers.
From Kuala Lumpur we take the Electronic Train Service (ETS) to George Town, a World Heritage repository of temples and colonial architecture on the island of Penang. Our home there is Seven Terraces, a guesthouse dripping in old-world romance that was carved from a row of grand shophouses by celebrated hotelier, Chris Ong. We take the town at a languid pace, weaving in and out of historic clan houses, interspersed with dips in the pool and deep dives in Penang’s renowned culinary scene, from street stalls dishing out local noodles char koay teow to Michelin-starred restaurants. We delve into the fascinating hybrid culture of the Peranakans, a highlight being supper at Ong’s home, alongside a tour of his collection of Peranakan art and ceramics.
Our final stop is The Datai, a marvel of tropical architecture on lush Langkawi. Designed by Australian architect Kerry Hill, The Datai celebrated its 30-year anniversary last year, following a refurbishment by French designer Didier Lefort, who worked alongside Hill on the original design. Cradled by ancient rainforest, with two pools, four restaurants and its own private beach – the most beautiful on Langkawi, with reach-out-and-touch views of Thailand – the pace slows again, as is the Malaysian way.
The Pursuit Of Malaysia is hosted by interior designer and travel writer, Jason Mowen. 11-22 March 2024 (11 nights), from $9,900 pp twin share. https://thepursuitof.com.au/
About Jason Mowen
Jason Mowen is the Editor and Founder of The Pursuit Of. He is a contributor to Vogue Living, WISH and The Murrurundi Argus. His words have also appeared in international publications such as Vogue and Conde Nast Traveller. His design work has been published in Elle Decor, Belle and AD. His travel style is unhurried and full of passion, seeking out beauty and interest in unexpected places and always avoiding the crowd. He launched The Pursuit Of in 2023 and now hosts small-group travel across the globe.
