Renowned for its stark white sand, Hyams Beach is easily the most famous stretch of shoreline in Jervis Bay and one of the top spots in all of Australia, but there’s another nearby that’s even more alluring, in a way that is reminiscent of the book and movie, The Beach.
Except in this case, we know just how picturesque this beach is. You see, it’s my husband’s favourite beach, Murray’s Beach. Nestled within the Booderee National Park, it also boasts pristine white sands and crystal-clear waters but is smaller in size with a perfectly shaped half-moon and it’s more off the beaten track.
Rich in flora and fauna, visitors often spot dolphins playing in the waves and a variety of bird species soaring overhead. It’s a place where memories are made, and the beauty of the natural world stares at you from every direction.
The beach, located in the national park with a $20 entry fee per car, is also a starting point for scenic bush walks to explore the coast. It’s there that I spot a pair of black cockatoos, with golden tail feathers feasting on pinecones and gumnuts.
Just like in The Beach, it has a magnetic pull. Our return trip is a reminder of a previous family holiday celebrating my husband’s milestone 60th birthday. It was with our children; this time, we visit as empty nesters.
It seems three women in string bikinis have discovered our treasure trove and are making the most of the TikTok worthy location, each taking turns to lie on the edge of the softly lapping water while their photo is taken from every angle. After each shot they gather to scrutinise themselves frame by frame. At no point do they fully immerse themselves in the water.
In a fleeting moment, I emulate a Celeste Barber-style pose for hubby. I’d once seen Angelina Jolie adopt the same pose, only not in her swimwear. It goes like this. You put one hand on your hip, pout your lips and point your toe in the sand. At the cost of embarrassing him, I garner a few laughs from the few other onlookers on the beach, who had also been looking with bemusement at the would be influencers. We left wondering whether they too had spotted the rare parrots.
Our trip had begun the day earlier, driving 131 kms south from Marrickville in Sydney’s inner west to the charming coastal town of Kiama. The tan suede and leather interior of the red CX-80 set the tone for our luxury weekend getaway. The new hybrid top of the range Mazda oozes style and comfort and handles the road smoothly.
Upon arriving in Kiama, we make our way to Silica Restaurant, perched on Surf Beach. The restaurant’s modern Australian dishes, crafted with fresh local seafood, are as enticing as the beachfront views. We savour a dozen oysters and a chilled chardonnay, basking in the beauty of Kiama Beach framed by magnificent Norfolk trees.
Then we head to Callala and on to Hyams beach the following morning, where we pull up at a café for breakfast, the only cafe in fact. There, we notice two women displaying a keen interest in our gleaming CX-80. As we approach, they ask how new it is and comment on the incredible interior and plushness of the car. Turns out the younger women drives a white CX-30 and wishes she bought the more luxurious model. As she eyes off the car, she says: ‘the interior is fabulous and I love the size of it though I’m not sure what my Chihuahua would do to that suede finish.’
When it comes to cars, size does matter; at least for me. I’m at the stage where I don’t need to be as practical, but what remains high on my list is safety. Knowing the CX-80 has a five-star ANCAP safety rating and numerous Mazda i-Activsense driver-supporting safety technologies is a big plus.
We don’t have a pet anymore; the children have flown the nest, and we enjoy road trips – we even have a country cottage to escape to away from the bustle of Sydney. So being in a spacious car, where we can enjoy plenty of roominess combined with seamless connectivity to music, podcasts, maps and making mobile calls matters. The MyMazda app is the best way to set up your phones to Apple Car Play. The Interface offers easy-to-use screens to control the CX-80’s infotainment and navigation systems and is the latest premium SUV to emerge from Mazda’s huge range.
Nowra’s fresh fish market is our next stop. The food is always so fresh, beautifully displayed and reasonably priced. Here, 12 fresh oysters cost us $12 and fresh flathead is priced at $28 a kilogram—a bargain compared to Sydney prices. The CX-80’s boot, which glides open with a single press, made stowing our fresh produce effortless.
Our journey finally takes us to our home for two nights Jamberoo Valley Farm, just in time for animal feeding at 5pm. Despite growing up on a horse stud in Mudgee, NSW, feeding animals still brings out the child in me. Stroking a horse, listening to its muffled neighing, or feeding newly sheared alpacas and feeling their soft wool is entertaining, even for adults.
Farm House cottage is delightfully decorated in contemporary colours and furniture and the huge floor to ceiling windows in the open style living room showcases the view outside of Kangaroo Valley’s lush green mountains. Finding solace here is easy in this tranquil setting, and we enjoy the rest of the day curling up reading books.
The team at the cottage provide lovely touches such as leaving a tray of freshly baked Hot Cross Buns for us on arrival and freshly baked bread is dropped on our doorway with mini-Easter eggs in the morning.
After a leisurely breakfast, we drive through the green embrace of the Valley to the quaint village of Jamberoo where women from the Country Women’s Association sell home baked cakes outside the local store opposite the kind of antique shop where you can buy a tonne of stuff you don’t need but know you simply must have.
Later, we glimpse an altogether different Australian life, in Port Kembla. Primarily known as an industrial town, it bears the marks of its history in the form of crumbling old pubs that line its streets, whispering tales of the hardworking souls who frequented them after long shifts in the steelworks.
There’s a lot happening in this town, and on any given weekend, you’d be hard pressed not to stumble on a live band. Lunch at SS Iron Yampi, a restaurant on historic Wentworth Street, champions both local bands and local produce. On the day we visit, the pub has ten live bands playing including the up and coming Press Club from Melbourne. Further down the road at The Servo, a beloved local venue known for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse musical acts, we happen upon a live solo Flamenco performance from a man, I daresay in his seventies, dressed in a turquoise bolero.
It’s all part of the gritty charm of Port Kembla and so refreshing to witness the juxtaposition of its industrial heritage against a backdrop of artistic growth, and newer style venues.
From Port Kembla we head south again through Shoalhaven, Kiama, Gerringong, Gerroa to Seven Mile beach. This is where we meet a ruddy cheeked Cornish Fisherman called George, who moved to the South Coast 11 years ago and set up Fishing With A Local. As he takes us towards his fishing spot, it’s clear he knows what he’s doing, and by his own admission he’s ‘the best fisherman around’.
From explaining how to catch live worms for bait to casting our lines into the incoming tide, George says the best meal we’ll ever enjoy is swimming just one or two waves away. He gives us a huge amount of information about the fish, the tackle, and how to fish sustainably. During our three-hour adventure, we release numerous small fish, a crab, seaweed, and a sting ray back into the sea. All the big ones were clearly those that got away.
George, who has an infectious enthusiasm for fishing, helps me spot a school of mackerel swimming close to the water’s edge. Standing bare foot in the lapping water, we cast our Shamino fishing rods into the sea, with growing excitement as we realise the fish are biting. We are fishing for Whiting, a delicate white fish. By the end, we’d caught enough Whiting to leave with our pride in tact and a new skill in hand.
Miss Arda Meze and Bar in Terralong St, Kiama, is a stone’s throw away. We’ve worked up a hunger but for those planning to visit be warned you need to book ahead now that word has got out that the chef and owner Emily Herbert is the former head chef of Ottolenghi in London. Emily crafts dishes that are a feast for the eyes and palate. Our meal includes Zucchini fries, green tahini panko crusted tuna with wasabi mayo and maple prawn and chorizo dumplings with black garlic and onion sauce, and lamb backstrap.
On our last morning, we relax in the outdoor Swedish hot tub and survey the valley’s panoramic views. The final leg of our journey is the coastal town of Coledale, with reportedly the world’s best fish and chips. Situated between the mountains of Stanwell National Park and a glorious beach, Roses fish and chip shop, owned and run by a British man by the name of Ben, lives up to its reputation.
For a $50 order, we select the grilled anthias fish, known to be an Asian delicacy, and hand cut chips wrapped traditionally in white paper. This is hands down the best fish and chips ever, primarily because everything is so fresh and made so well. The fish is local, sustainable and wild caught, while the potatoes are supplied from nearby Robertson Farm. Normal fish and chips including tartare sauce is $25 or $27 in beef dripping is made in-house, even the beer batter is made daily, and the triple cooked chips are two days in the making.
Driving back to Sydney, we reflect on the incredible blend of nature, luxury, and culinary delights that made this trip such an unforgettable experience. There are so many spectacular attractions in Jervis Bay, Kiama, Port Kembla and Kangaroo Valley but it’s the regions proximity to Sydney is what reminds us that sometimes, the best escapes are just a drive away.
Robyn was a guest of Mazda Australia and Jamberoo Valley Farm.
