For the better part of a decade, the sandwich scene has been trapped in a committed relationship with sourdough bread.
Every cafe menu seemed legally obligated to feature a loaf with the structural integrity of a heritage-listed terrace house. The crusts got crunchier. The fermentation timelines got longer. And, somewhere along the way, eating lunch started to feel like a jaw-strengthening exercise.
But lately – post-COVID homebaking craze, perhaps – the world’s carb loyalties have started to shift.
Suddenly, softer breads are having their moment. Milk buns are bouncing back. Focaccia is flourishing. Ciabatta continues its stubborn refusal to leave the group chat. And now, challah – the glossy, braided Jewish bread traditionally reserved for Shabbat tables – is quietly emerging as the next great sandwich vehicle.
Leading this carby craze locally is The Grumpy Baker in Sydney – and specifically its new Schnitzel in Challah: an $18 creation packed with schnitzel, roasted eggplant, spicy Romanian salad and lettuce layered into house-made challah bread.
And while we don’t typically advocate for the reliable long-term relationship, we suspect this may just be the sandwich that finally convinces Sydneysiders to break up with sourdough for good. And we’re not mad. Because while Sydney’s sandwich renaissance has largely been built on oversized and aggressively artisanal loaves, there’s something refreshingly comforting about challah. Rich without being heavy. Soft without being flimsy. Sweet enough to feel indulgent, but savoury enough to stand up to a proper schnitzel situation. Most importantly, it doesn’t attack the roof of your mouth halfway through lunch.
That softer style of sandwich feels particularly aligned with where food trends are heading right now. After years of minimalist plating and “deconstructed” everything, diners are gravitating back towards comfort food with personality – dishes that feel nostalgic, slightly overfilled, and emotionally supportive. And sandwiches, perhaps more than any other food category, have become the chosen vehicle for culinary self-expression.
No longer just a quick lunch, the sandwich scene has evolved into a full-blown personality type. Some people will happily queue 40 minutes for mortadella. Entire TikTok accounts devoted to cross-sections of focaccia. Group chats dedicated to tracking limited-edition specials. And, somewhere along the way, sandwiches became the world’s most competitive carb category.
Which is precisely why The Grumpy Baker’s offering works. The schnitzel brings the crunch. The roasted eggplant adds silkiness. The spicy Romanian salad cuts through the richness with tang and heat. But the challah is the real hero here – absorbing everything without collapsing into soggy chaos.
It all tracks for the popular family-run bakery group, which now operates almost a dozen locations across Sydney and Newcastle – from Potts Point and Bellevue Hill to Waverton, Maroubra and the tucked-away Abercrombie Lane in the CBD. Because, unlike many trend-driven openings chasing viral fame through tableside theatrics and menu stunts, The Grumpy Baker understands something fundamental: people don’t actually want sandwiches that are complicated. They want satisfying sandwiches. And honestly, while we heart sourdough, it may finally be time to start(er) fresh and see other people.
