TIkTok historian Dr Esme takes a look at the latest Brontë adaptation to reveal what was truly on the menu in the 18th century—and what is pure Hollywood theatre.
“The late 18th to early 19th century was undergoing a strawberry craze,” says Dr Esme. “Strawberry Parties were a real phenomena that took the wealthier classes by storm. This included going out to pick strawberries together (but, of course, only taking a polite amount) and then returning to picnic together – enjoying your harvest alongside strawberry jam, strawberry cream, and even strawberry champagne. Some women even had dresses specifically made for the occasion, decorated with patterns of this berry. At the same time, competitions of growing oversized fruit and vegetables also became popular – often, as a way to demonstrate the richness of your land and harvest.
“While Margo Robbie’s strawberry is definitely exaggerated, the strawberry craze of the time is certainly rooted in fact. “
What’s the deal with elaborate jelly dishes and food suspended in aspic? Were Georgians genuinely obsessed with wobbling food… or is that cinematic drama?
Jellied food (known as aspic) was a popular trend of the time – beginning in the French courts, and making its way to the elite families of England. These jellied dishes were often made in elaborate moulds, with suspended meats, fishes, and even salads. As well as the aesthetic appeal (though, we may disagree today!), aspic also served a practical purpose. Before the age of refrigeration, this was one way of preserving food – especially if households had purchased more elaborate ingredients that required preserving for an occasion. Luckily for us, dinnertime looks much different today! Bronte wishes it could have been so easy to experience different ingredients and try new recipes!
The infamous lamb in a glass box — historically accurate or pure gothic theatre?
Elaborate centrepieces and displays were common in many elite households – some that we today would consider quite distasteful. Taxidermy was taking off, and could even be a way to show off your spoils from your recent hunt. A lamb in a box would have been a more unlikely one, but it does serve to tell us a lot about Catherine’s position within the Linton’s household. We see a number of “innocent” animals – such as the infamous lamb and the goldfish – inside of the Grange, serving as a metaphor of Catherine’s felt enclosure within this place of outward beauty.
If we were invited to dinner at Wuthering Heights in the late 18th century, what would actually be on the table?
Despite the drama of the dishes in the movie, the food would likely be practical and hearty rather than extravagant. Rural Yorkshire fare would have included: Roast mutton or beef; lots of broths or stews; potatoes and root vegetables – all topped off with a small wine or ale. Special occasions would have included some more elaborate meats, and puddings made from seasonal fruits. Nutrition and warmth would have been the heart of what was eaten – which is very different from today, when we have the privilege of eating food that is both nutritional for the body and a sensory delight. Meal kits like HelloFresh make it so easy for us to explore new and exciting meals every night, inspired by so many different cultures and places throughout the world. None of the spices, flair and bold flavours that we get to experience every night would have been available in the time of Wuthering Heights.
How different would dinnertime rituals have been compared to today — in terms of timing, preparation and who did the cooking?
In Brontë’s time, “dinner” was often the main meal eaten earlier in the day, particularly outside elite urban circles. Hierarchy and division of class/labour were also markers of the dinnertime experience. Those who prepared the food did not sit with the household members who settled down. It was this working class that had the responsibility of planning the meals, heading to market, and the preparation and presentation of the meals – whilst enjoying little to none of the fruits of their labour.
Now, many of us understand the act of cooking as an act of love that can bring households together after the different experiences of everyone throughout the day. The act of labour can also look very different. We can have our meals for the week delivered directly to our door, with the precise amount of ingredients already organised into different satchels and amounts. This greatly reduces the amount of stress and mental/physical labour that goes into the essential act of eating, allowing us to enjoy much more of the joy of dinnertime and less of the workload – a situation that is much more in tune to our busy, modern lives.
Were grand, dramatic dinner spreads a sign of wealth and power — or were they more about practicality and preservation?
There is a mix of practicality and aesthetic considerations that go into the making of dinner. Elaborate spreads – like we see at the Linton’s house – we’re certainly an expression of status and wealth. In one scene, we even see a giant pineapple as a centre piece – around this time, exotic fruits such as this were absolutely a show, not only of the families class and financial status, but of the power they possessed to acquire such goods.
On the other hand, there were considerations of practicality – suspending meats in jelly, decorated into elaborate displays, were an easy way to preserve foods. Aspic could be prepared days in advance of consumption. The care taken to sculpt and decorate the jelly was evidence that the family possessed talented chefs – with culinary and artistic capabilities.
Which detail in the latest adaptation made you think: “Okay, that one’s surprisingly accurate”?
The tensions around the dinner table were certainly something that took place. Meals amongst the household were very much a ritual – in many cases, a lot of show and little substance. Families were often expected to eat at set times, and there was little ability to be flexible about these arrangements unless the household had advance notice. This explains the frustration we see with Cathy’s father, as he waits to eat on this birthday and his food has become cold. There was no quick and easy way to pop things in the microwave at these times – and the household help may have left by this time to attend to their own needs (depending on the status of the family).
We are very fortunate that in our world today, meal times can be planned within our schedules – which can often differ greatly within a single household. The ability to even select meals that have different preparation times – 45 mins to anything as short as under 20 mins – allows us a much greater ability to sculpt a routine that is tailored specifically to our individual needs. Such luxury was certainly not afforded to the likes with Wuthering Heights!
And finally — if Cathy and Heathcliff were around today, what would they be ordering for dinner? Something brooding?
Heathcliff would absolutely choose something dark and intense (perhaps a slow-cooked ragu or a deeply spiced braise). Cathy, by contrast, would go for something vibrant and unpredictable – bold flavours, maybe a zesty stir-fry or something bright and layered. But most importantly, they’d argue about it. They would choose flavours that absolutely should not go together, but yet somehow do – something that hits the tongue instantly, and then another aftertaste that sticks in the back of the mouth long after consumption.
