As the International Woolmark Prize regional nominees are announced, respected Fashion Filmmaker Anthony Lau talks about the inspiration behind his new documentary, Behind the Prize. The fashion documentary charts the lead up to the prestigious 2014 / 2015 International Woolmark Prize.
Acclaimed director Anthony Lau recently debuted his third film for The Woolmark Company, which tracks the journey of five regional finalists, including Australia’s STRATEAS.CARLUCCI, to Beijing where, in March 2015, they showcased innovative collections developed using merino wool before a panel of esteemed judges – including Victoria Beckham and Angelica Cheung of Vogue China – to compete for the International Woolmark Prize (IWP).
Winner Marcia Patmos of M.PATMOS (United States), was awarded prize money and the chance to be stocked in some of the foremost department stores in the world (think Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harvey Nichols in London), making it easy to see why the IWP is so highly coveted by budding designers.
Ashkar Line, Bianca Spender, Celeste Tesoriero, Elissa McGowan.
The Woolmark Company took the opportunity to reveal the Australian regional nominees for the 2015 / 2016 IWP: Ashkar Line; Bianca Spender; Celeste Tesoriero; Elissa McGowan; From Britten P/L; Han; Haryono Setiadi; and P. Johnson. The Australian nominees will compete for the regional award in July 2015 in Sydney, with corresponding regional awards to be held in London, Shanghai, Dubai, Antwerp and New York. The finalists selected at the regional awards will present their collections at the IWP finals in Florence (menswear) and New York (womenswear) in January and February 2016 respectively.
Han, Haryono Setiadi, and P. Johnson.
Here Anthony comments on the rise and rise of the fashion film, and being inspired by Australia’s emerging designers…
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
You have now produced three films in consecutive years documenting the lead up to, and culmination of, the International Woolmark Prize. How would you describe these experiences and what have you learnt from them?
Travelling to every designer’s home over the past three years has been very inspiring. Understanding how designers from opposite corners of the world think, create and independently find their place of relevance in the industry has been a great, eye-opening experience.
The path they have chosen takes an incredible amount courage and determination. The support from The Woolmark Company to encourage these young designers through an initiative such as the IWP makes all the difference in the world. It enables young creatives to believe, beyond the boundaries of geography and commerce.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
How has your approach to directing the films in each of the past three years differed, based on the finalists and their collections?
In any approach to film making, there should always be allowances for unplanned moments. There’s a natural sensibility that you feel, obtain and embrace when you begin documenting a story. For this film, I felt our cast of professional experts together with our designer finalists shared many common values and opinions. It was that sense of camaraderie, embracing opportunity that I found most inspiring. This played a key role in this year’s film.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
Over the past few years, there has been a rise in documentary films about the fashion industry, in particular, what happens behind the scenes. Why do you think this is, and why do you think it is important that these sorts of films continue to be made?
I think everyone loves a good story. An intimately filmed story, can be even better… individuals and brands sitting at the top of their game make for a richer story; a more fascinating subject matter.
The fashion world can be seen as very guarded – so there’s always that curiosity of “I want to know what’s going on behind that door”.
The fashion industry is a fascinating world for film, with an endless cast of passionate, diverse and interesting personalities.
There are so many creative and interesting people/brands out there, so yes – I definitely see more great fashion films to come.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’ – Judge Victoria Beckham.
Tell us about a recent film project of yours that is close to your heart.
I can call this one particular film close to my heart (because it’s taking me forever to finish…) It’s a short titled “Awaken from Reality”.
I’m fascinated with relationships of any kind – particularly the impact one has with social society. The film is a look into stereotypes, and how we all relate to so many, even if we try not to.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
Australian designers continue to be celebrated through the IWP. How important do you think this international recognition is for their ongoing careers?
It’s fundamental to support the biggest and brightest talents, regardless of which country you are from. The IWP just so happens to do this very well for our Australian designers. This celebration obviously helps participating designers begin to understand the landscape of international fashion and the huge benefits to be achieved through international retail opportunities. This of course is a great boost for anyone’s career.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
How do you think the Australian talent compares with that of other designers around the world?
The rest of the world has definitely taken notice of Australian brands making a mark internationally. There’s no question Australia has great talent. What’s important is that we continue assisting our emerging designers to network with global markets and to better their understanding of these markets for confident international growth.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
Can you tell us a little bit about your experience working with 2014/2015 Australian finalist (both mens and womenswear) STRATEAS.CARLUCCI?
The humble duo from Melbourne are true artisans; they represent the future of Australian fashion. I first met Mario and Peter a few years back when they were competing for the IWP regional competition. At the time, they were really making some noise as the ones to watch. Both incredibly down to earth guys, with a single vision to develop an international brand. Two years on, their brand is internationally ready. I’m a huge supporter and looking forward to their Paris Fashion Week debut later this year.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’.
This year, which of the finalists’ aesthetic appealed to you the most on a personal level and why?
I think Marcia (M.Patmos), offers a whole new consideration to consumers of fashion. Combining diverse functionality and a tangible narrative. I thought that was very clever.
Still from ‘Behind The Prize’ – Judge Angelica Cheung from Vogue China.
Finally, your favourite moment in the course of making Behind the Prize and why?
Meeting all the designers in their hometown was a special moment. There’s a privilege and honesty that you experience when you travel across the world to someone’s home to learn about what makes them tick.
Filmmaker of ‘Behind The Prize’ Anthony Lau.
Behind The Prize Trailer…
The 2014 / 2015 International Woolmark Prize winner for womenswear, M. Patmos, was announced in March 2015 in Beijing (this is the journey Anthony’s film followed). The 2014 / 2015 International Woolmark Prize winner for menswear was announced in January 2015 in London (Anthony’s film did not follow this). The 2015 / 2016 International Woolmark Prize winners will be announced in January and February 2016.
Have you seen Anthony Lau’s film Behind The Prize? Tell us what you thought of it in the comments below…
