As the sun sets, casting a golden hue over ancient olive groves and whitewashed villages with their distinctive trulli cone-shaped roofs, Puglia and its wilder western neighbour, Basilicata, unveil their timeless magic. Even after four visits and another planned for 2025, I never tire of these regions. Nestled in the heel of Italy’s boot, these lesser-known gems offer a sensory journey through history, culture, and gastronomy – where every meal is a celebration and every vista a masterpiece.
Puglia and Basilicata are where Italians themselves retreat for a taste of la dolce vita. With sun-splashed landscapes spanning the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region (which boasts more sunny days than anywhere else in Italy) invites you to explore a world steeped in tradition and brimming with experiences and flavours.
Walking among history in Matera
Matera, a city unlike any other, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has starred in films like James Bond: No Time to Die, Wonder Woman, Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ, and even Ben-Hur. Its ancient cave dwellings, or Sassi, tell stories of past civilisations. Although the caves date back to prehistoric times, they were only evacuated in the 1950s. Our guide, whose family has lived here for generations, shares incredible stories and takes us to an ancient cave church where layers of frescoes reveal its many transformations.
Amidst the labyrinthine streets and breathtaking ravines, dining in cave trattorias while tasting local wines aged in caves that once housed the earliest winemakers is just one “pinch me” moment.
A culinary adventure off the beaten track
For me, it is always the characters met along the way which make travel special. Imagine visiting a dairy farm where the owner, Giorgio milks his 60 cows then makes cheese and other artisanal products? He proudly boasts 0km food miles. It is extraordinary to watch as he pours boiling water over cheese curds to make fresh mozzarella and shape it into traditional shapes, knots and even pigs. He makes it look easy but when I tried I was not so adept! No matter as when we step into this Italian family dining room we try his farm made salamis and wine.
In Altamura, we discover an old bakery where the fifth generation of the founding family continue to make revered DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) bread, pane di Altamura. The designation demands that the bread is made using re-milled local durum wheat flour, naturally leavened with a sourdough that has risen three times and baked in a wood-fired oven. This recipe dates back to the 1st century B.C., as cited in some of the Roman poet Horace’s works: “Altamura bread, by far the best bread to be had, so good that the wise traveller takes a supply with him for his onward journey.” (Book I, V of Horace’s Satires, 37 BC). The connection to history is tangible as we bite through the warm crunchy crust to eat the golden bread. It is a similar feeling tasting extra virgin olive oil from trees which are over 3,500 years old and seeing where the Romans pressed the olives to get oil.
Foraging on the estate of Masseria Montenapoleone reveals more about organic farming and regenerative processes for ancient varieties. This fresh produce is transformed into traditional Pugliese dishes along with the pasta we have varied success at making in a hands-on experience with an Italian Nonna. Hilarity rules as we try our hand at shaping orecchiette, or ‘little ears’ for which the region is famous.
Something I have always wanted to do becomes a reality in the so-called Salsa di Pomodoro day, where every step of making tomato sauce, from picking plump tomatoes, washing and preparing them to cooking and bottling the ruby-red result, is a timeless labour of love. We are blessed as Gianna, our teacher rarely opens her family’s farmhouse. Everyone lends a hand as she laughingly shows us how to correctly squeeze the pulp from tomatoes, plies us with food and wine and regales us with stories. We leave with two jars each of salsa di pomodoro and, as we are travelling, later use it to make excellent Bloody Marys.
A feast for all the senses
Beyond food, there is much to experience of Puglia and Basilicata’s cultural riches. Aside from Matera, seeing inside a trulli house in Alberobello, preserved as a museum from a time long gone; the baroque splendour of Lecce where artisans boutiques are tucked away in back streets and marvelling at the striking White City of Ostuni form a backdrop to our journey. Each stop offers its own character and stories enriched by insights and anecdotes from local tour guides, tips on where to shop, how to drink coffee and introductions digestifs like amaro. A new highlight for me is boarding a gulet-style tall ship with wooden decks to sail past the dramatic sea caves of Polignano a Mare enjoying a prosecco on the Adriatic’s turquoise waters. The perfect morning before lunching where the locals eat on seafood, straight out of the water to enjoy raw or cooked.
Could this be your next travel adventure?
This experience is one of my international culinary tours. It is not simply about sightseeing – it’s about connection. From intimate tastings with winemakers to personal encounters with chefs and farmers, every moment invites you to feel the heartbeat of Puglia. This tour will linger in your heart and palate long after it ends.
Your Invitation to Join For anyone who has dreamed of a deeper connection to Italy, Culinary Adventures in Puglia & Basilicata is your chance to savour its soul. Places are limited and must be confirmed before Christmas 2024, so consider this your call to explore a corner of the world that will forever change the way you see – and taste – life.
