Are pimples hereditary? Stress induced? Food related? All three, and then some… But if you understand why they grace your face, and the correct ingredients to use for effective treatment, you can burst that pimple’s bubble for good…
Most of us know bits and bobs about pimples, but the one main stayer is they are not welcome. Emma Hobson, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica, gives us the heads up on spots and explains the best ingredients to incorporate into your skincare regime to say adios amigos….
What is a pimple?
A: A pimple can be broken down into several phases of growth. “The early stage of a spot is when it feels like a red, sore, raised lump,” explains Emma. “This is when the congested plug (blackhead) and bacteria have caused so much pressure in the pore that it actually makes a break in the side wall, the contents then empty into the surrounding tissue and the body responds by alerting the immune system. The white blood cells then rapidly attack the bacteria. It’s this process that causes the white/yellow head of a spot to appear. A spot may last for 5 or 6 days, depending on how active they are.”
Are pimples hereditary?
A: “You can blame genetics for having a predisposition to acne,” explains Emma. “That said, breakouts are triggered predominantly by our hormones, so if your highly stressed you can expect a skin blow out especially in the lower jaw and neck region, equally when it’s that time of the month and your hormones elevate its common to get breakouts on the side of your chin.”
How to treat a pimple…
A: Firstly, don’t squeeze! “Apply a spot clearing product as quickly as you can,” suggests Emma. “There are some fantastic products that you can put directly on a spot to help heal it quickly and effectively (see below). If you need to apply a concealer, ensure it’s a non comedogenic one, so it won’t make the spot worse!”
Never, ever SQEEZE!
A: “Absolutely, NEVER squeeze a spot,” warns Emma. “This is an inflamed lesion filled with bacteria. If you squeeze it you can spread the infection, cause damage to the very delicate skin around it and end up having not only more spots but a scar as a result.”
What topical solutions work best?
A: “Some of my favourite treatment products for breakouts are overnight clearing gels, mattifying lotions and moisturisers that control excess sebum, and purifying wipes used during the day to keep the skin clear and the sebum flow and in check,” suggests Emma. “There are some fantastic products that you can put directly on a spot to help heal it quickly and effectively. Some are used at night some throughout the day. A great daily treatment is an active spot recovery treatment that also contains a mineral/natural concealer so it hides the spot, but is not comedogenic, as the majority of concealers are in make-up ranges. The best way to reduce pore size is to control the oil flow and the best way to reduce oil flow is to use an ingredient called Enantia Chlorantha Bark, which has a 36% in reduction in pore size, 49% reduction in sebum flow and 55% less skin shine.”
What about Blackhead?
A: “For blackheads and congestion, which are precursors to spots, look for products that contain Salicylic acid, this is the only exfoliating ingredient that can work on the ‘inside’ of the follicle losing the impaction so the blackhead is released.”
Effective Acne Treatment Ingredients:
- Niacinamide and Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid help with oily shine.
- Salicylic Acid and Lactic Acid stimulate natural exfoliation to eliminate the congestion.
- Spirea Ulmaria Extract, Cinnamon Extract and Zinc Gluconate help to control bacteria.
- To keep inflammation caused by acne under control, apply products that contain topical anti-inflammatories. This includes Green Tea, Camphor, Allantoin and Oat Extract.
- Calendula, Green Tea, Horse Chestnut, Liquorice and Chamomile help treat breakouts while calming irritation.
- Biotin, Tea Tree, Zinc Gluconate and Yeast Extract are all fantastic for purifying the skin, promoting clarity and preventing breakouts.
- Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient that helps prevent the dehydration and dry patches associated with clearing products.
- Benzoyl Peroxide is a chemical that introduces oxygen into the follicle, thereby killing the anaerobic bacteria. It also has the added benefit of causing a drying and peeling to pustules and papules. This treatment may be used at the 5% concentration (the max concentration for an ‘over the counter’ cosmeceutical) directly over the affected at 8 hourly intervals.
Pimple Zapping Treatments: For the body and bacne, try Dermalogica MediBac Clearing Skin Wash, $49.50 and Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant, $54.50. For treating spots try Dermalogica Medibac Concealing Spot Treatment, $36.00.
Dermalogica offer a ‘Face mapping’ diagnosis where therapists can identify the pimple zones and possible triggers, including skin condition and lifestyle factors, and suitable treatments to manage acne. Visit www.dermalogica.com.au for more info.
What do you do to zap your zits? Tell us in the comments below!
