If you are a fan of tropical islands that are under the radar, rich in history, and reality-tv approved (fun fact the 10th season of American Survivor was shot here!), then it might be time to forgo Fiji and consider travelling to Palau. Even if you’re not exactly sure how it’s pronounced.
Seaside sleeps
Sorting out your sleeping arrangements is a great starting point when planning a trip to Palau. Because, as tempting as it may be to fill the 1440 minutes allocated to each day with water sports and seafood feasts, at one point sheer exhaustion will likely have you yearning to say “Alii” (Palaun for Hello) to a comfortable bed. Conveniently, the country offers a range of accommodations to cater to every traveller’s preference. Whether seeking blowout, budget or boutique charm.
Nestled amid tropical gardens, Palau Pacific Resort ticks the boxes for voyagers who like their holiday hotel served with a side of sea access. As well as villas that front a private beach (or bungalows that sit directly above it), the personalised service of this five-star stay offers the kind of attentive yet unobtrusive luxury you would typically expect on a tropical island that costs twice as much. The included breakfast is extremely generous. The pool picturesque. And, the on-site spa an infinitely more indulgent way to buff away your toasty skin than using the beach sand as a makeshift exfoliant and hoping for the best. Insider tip: Ask about their in-house clam planting program.
In comparison, the strength of the downtown-positioned Palau Central Hotel lies in its location. Steps away from the convenience of sites, supermarkets and seriously good spots to drink and dine. The boutique charm of this triple-level accommodation is immediately on display in the retro red Chevrolet parked at the entrance. And, extends throughout – with amenities that include several Rock Island-facing rooms, an always stocked foyer-fridge and a relaxed outdoor pool.
Finally, the Palasia Hotel offers an accommodation option perfect for families and large groups of friends. The kind of travellers who like big spacious rooms, on-site gyms and a duty-free store at your doorstep.
Island eats
The influence of American, Asian and Island culture – as well as the abundance of marine-filled waters that surround it – ensure that Palaun food is a fusion of flavours. Where unsurprisingly, fresh seafood shines.
You can find some of the best at Tori Tori. Here, local fishermen expertly transform their “catch of the day” into exquisite Japanese-inspired dishes like tuna sashimi, sizzling clams, and crispy shrimp rolls. If wiped-clean plates aren’t quite enough to convince you of Tori Tori’s un-o-fish-ial status as the best in town, perhaps a personal recommendation from restaurant regular and Palauan President, Surangel Whipps Jr might …
Similarly, Elilai Seafood Dining excels on the, well, seafood front. With fresh crustacean dishes (such as crispy crab cakes) that pair perfectly with a range of Palauan sides and specialties. Like taro leaf soup, (a safer introduction to local soup than the fruit bat-based delicacy!), papaya and gorgonzola cheese salad, and cassava cake with coconut ice cream. Time your dining well and you can enjoy your entree just as the sun and the moon swap places. With the latter claiming the starring role in Palau’s perfect night skyline.
Non-pescatarians should head to Taj. For so-delicious-it could-be-Dehli vegetarian curries and creative cocktails. Or, cross the road to Canoe House. Alongside walls decorated with movie memorabilia, the menu features sizzling hot wings, generous pizzas topped with a Pacific water spinach called kangkum, and juicy American-style burgers. Wash them all down with a locally brewed Red Rooster Beer. Chicken in name only (no poultry was harmed in its making!), and, one of the Palau’s few manufactured products.
Feeling slightly intimidated by the brilliant karaoke-ing locals at Canoe who know their way around a Whitney Houston ballad? Discreetly slip out and head to L’Amarena Gelato Shop. Here, must-try flavours include the algae-blue Spirulina, citrusy yellow kalamansi and violet-hued Filipino ube – a sweet nod to the unmistakable influence of Palau’s second-largest ethnic group.
Patriarchy, protected species and packing tips
When it comes to weather, if the consistency of your smartphone apps doesn’t give it away (sunny icons and an average daily reading of 28°C during our entire stay) the regularity with which you reapply your sunscreen – and deodorant – should!
Palau enjoys a classic tropical climate, with high temperatures and higher humidity. However, neighbouring countries’ monsoonal conditions occasionally interrupt relaxing outdoor activities with rainfall. When collating a travel wardrobe, in this instance you may be better off adopting a “Do as I say. Not as I do” approach. (As evidenced by this writer’s suitcase crammed with impractical fluro skirts and sequined tops!). Instead, your best options are plenty of swimsuits, loose clothing made of natural fabrics and a well-sized reef-smart sunscreen.
Perhaps the only thing warmer than the breezes in Palau are the welcomes. It is a place where the president can be spotted strolling Main Street in his Hawaii shirt and sneakers. Where the governor of its third-largest island might just casually invite you in for a freshly caught and personally prepared seafood feast of mud and coconut crabs. And, where the humility of the locals extends across all nine of the inhabited islands.
Given that English and Palauan are the official languages of this island nation, you also won’t need to access your Duolingo to be understood. However, a simple “Sulang” (Thankyou!) goes far in this country where respect for culture is at the core. Encompassing everything from eco-protection of its marine life and extending to matriarchal relations.
Yes. Forget about smashing the patriarchy. Pfft! In Palau, it never existed! Instead, the island has long adopted a female-centric society. It maintains a rigorous adherence to matrilineal rituals, tracing lineage, inheritance, and traditional titles exclusively through the female line. This means that although Palauan village chiefs might all be men, a council of women chooses them.
Ultimately, if there’s anything to be pessimistic about on this pristine island paradise, perhaps it is that their official currency is $USD. Not in itself a problem. But, certainly, a challenge to stick to a reasonable budget when one AUD is equivalent to US60c!
So, while a bottle of imported wine may set you back three-digit-dollars, foregoing the vino for a week is a pretty small price to pay to spend seven spectacular days on this Island Paradise.
PS. The pronunciation is pah-lau!
