I have a confession… I don’t really like holidays. As hard as it is to believe, I simply get bored. Lying on a beach in shorts so tight you might be mistaken for a hooker, smothered in factor 900, trying desperately not to think about all the stuff you could be doing back at home is not my idea of fun.
But, I’m no fool. I know that like everyone, I too, need a break from my day-to-day world. So weekend breaks have become a permanent fixture in my annual calendar. Three days away is just long enough to recharge. And where to go? Well, over the last 15 years I have been fortunate enough to experience many of Italy’s delights. The dreamy cobbled lanes of Rome, the extraordinary canals of Venice and the city buzz of Milan… But it was the spectacular views of Tuscany that prompted this weekend away.
Thankfully the drive from Florence airport to Villa Armena isn’t long. Packed into my rented Fiat 500, armed with my iPod, I negotiated the right-hand side of the Tuscan highway; within moments I was a tiny little figure bombing along the Italian landscape. Rambling hills of every shade of green, vineyards stretching so far it felt as if the grapes might drop off the side of the earth, and the soothing silence complemented by this rich tapestry. Is this Tuscan idyll the place where bustle goes to rest? Possibly. So beautiful, so quiet, so far away from my usual world. No screaming near-naked chaos, just serene elegance wrapped up in breathtaking views. I had a feeling I might like this place.
After a surprisingly peaceful two-hour drive my friend and I arrived at a small village. I checked my map and saw that my hotel is tucked away at the peak of the mountain that overlooks in Buonconvento village and its inhabitants. The drive up the mountain is truly a beautiful finish to the journey. The sandy road leaves a billowing trail of dust behind you and just for a moment you’re given licence to be Sophia Loren in a Fifties’ film; I fantasised that I was on my way to meet my lover…
The first thing that struck us as we entered the hotel was how quiet it was: the large orange brick and marble entrance hall had an antique desk sitting politely in the corner. Within seconds of being there, a young woman with an infectious smile appeared. She signed us in, gave us our keys and called a porter to take bags to the room. I realised the quietness is a theme of this beautiful hotel. This place is designed for rest, somewhere to go to escape the city, somewhere to be at one with the views. Perfect!
One of the characters here is resident dog, Franco, a 40-kilo cutey. He’s even starred in an Italian TV commercial. Owners Edoardo and his partner Elena are the warmest hosts you could hope for, and Edoardo’s wine-buff mum, Laura – who conducts erudite tastings in the basement wine cellar – is equally charming. Every little detail has been considered, from the fresh fruit in rooms to the sprigs of twigs and flowers decorating tables (Elena likes to change things up, though, so you’re bound to see something different when you’re there). It is not often you meet owners like these, ones who will take you on wine tours, help you out if you get a flat tire during your stay, and keep you wined, dined and generally genial from check in ’til check out.
The porter showed me to my room; I wasn’t disappointed. A huge bed, separate lounge area, small terrace and a gorgeous bathroom with a shower big enough for the entire Italian rugby team. The decor is a delightful mix of new and old. Modern, washed neutral walls juxtaposed with traditional marble floors, dark wooden furniture and five-star bed linen.
The rest of this baroque boutique beauty is finished in this style too. Little pockets of space decorated with either old Italian books or modern art. Large comfy armchairs or Starck-esque stools… the choice is yours. The grounds surrounding the hotel are just as stylised. A pool, which looks a little more like a pond is at the centre of the space, lined by the tallest trees I’ve ever seen. Truly tranquil.
Being there in winter, I decided to drive to Siena for a sightseeing experience. (In summer, who would ever want to leave that pool?) A smallish city, this World Heritage Site is enclosed in 20-foot walls of Italian stone, and on my off-season visit there was just a handful of tourists scurrying around, and the occasional local going about their usual business… and me, a Londoner dressed in city wear, clutching tightly to my London ways.
Siena is a neat collection of hilly lanes stuffed to the hilt with Renaissance architecture/art/pasticcerie and tiny boutiques but not a whole lot more in terms of retail temptations. That is fine, I convinced myself… you are not here to shop… you are here to relax… I told myself sternly. But I didn’t listen for long. Those who know me will tell you that I love to shop. I love nothing more than browsing the shelves of foreign stores, marveling at the delicate packaging, inhaling lungs full of delicious intoxications… and of course buying stuff I can’t find back home. As you can imagine I was delighted to stumble across a tiny, beautifully lit perfume store just seconds away from the main piazza. A treasure trove of little glass bottles that winked at me provocatively. Remind me why I visited this dedicated-to-romance part of the world solo? But surely the ultimate aphrodisiac must be a whirl at romantic, Renaissance Villa Armena. And the treat awaiting my senses next – dinner in its slow food restaurant, Sorbo Allegro. Now that would be a great name for a perfume.
For bookings or further information about Villa Armena or any other Mr & Mrs Smith hotel visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or phone the expert Travel Team on 1300 89 66 27.
Have you visited Villa Armena? Tell us about your experience in the comments below…
