Internationally acclaimed and Aussie born and bred cult fashion label Zimmermann rocked the New York runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Romanticising the art of dressing up, the Fall 2015 Zimmermann collection entitled The Esplanade, presented a sleek offering of dapper femininity to a star-studded front row including Olivia Palermo, Jessica Hart and Jessica Szohr.
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Hooked on a feeling of occasion, designer Nicky Zimmermann created her own dress code for Fall 2015, marrying sentimental inspiration with a design direction that forms a unifying and uniquely Zimmermann blue print for the collection. Here, colour makes a bold statement; blocked in unique combinations of baby pink and burgundy, dove grey and teale, navy and mustard. The quirky hues remixed further in an oversized geo print and custom paisley – restraint evident in the focus on two key graphics.
Nicky said; “I have vivid memories of growing up in suburban Sydney and my parents hosting, what I thought at the time, were very glamorous dinner parties. It was less about the clothes and the setting, and maybe more about that feeling of excitement and sense of occasion, which created a starting point for the collection. I’ve worked with an offbeat but dynamic colour palette influenced from various interiors references of the 60s. This season I wanted to work with a more streamlined and elongated A-line silhouette so the collection was more structured, and less free and flowing than last season.”
Each look of this stunning collection explores the evolution of the A-line shape, creating a streamlined continuity that is subtle and intricate. Weighted crepe moulds silhouettes smoothly over the body projecting an air of calculated polish. The clean lines of maxi lengths, precise panelling and thigh-high splits add to the season’s sense of elongated elegance.
This intentionally sleek canvas gives way to bespoke textures. A three-dimensional circle embroidery applies a buoyant stiffness to A-line mini’s and long-sleeve blouses which are primly tucked into high waisted stovepipes. A self-devised knotted macramé forms a sturdy lace, inserted in lengths from collarbone to wrist; décolletage to hem. Flattened studs, eyelet lacing and gold ring trims ensure every seam, hem and fabric edge is considered.
Sensual cut-outs up the femininity factor. Keyholes, deep V-necks and peak-a-boo trims balance expertly with floor skimming skirts, bell sleeves and high roll collars to create a picture of refinement. Pea coats and blazers form the outer shell of considered layering ensuring each look is more wearable and well-groomed than the last.
Accessories match back with suede ankle-tied booties, strappy platforms and a modern take on the Mary-Jane offered in burgundy, navy, black and sometimes mixed with rust. A structured take on the bucket bag and rigid oversized clutches are intentionally sharp and high on sophistication.
The sense of sartorial discernment in Zimmermann’s Fall 2015 is intoxicating. It’s clear all the well-dressed women will be found at The Esplanade this season.
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