For many chefs, Christmas memories extend beyond the kitchen table into moments of mischief, community and shared laughter. From caramelised hams to fragrant family soups, these chefs reveal heartwarming, whimsical and sometimes chaotic dishes that define their festive season and the merry meals bringing comfort, connection and joy to every plate.
Garth Channing, Executive Chef, Windows Restaurant at Pullman Melbourne Albert Park
For Garth Channing, Christmas was simple, familiar and anchored by ham. “When I think back to Christmas as a kid, the funny thing is how much stayed the same, even though we kept switching houses every year. One year we were at Mum’s parents’, the next year at Dad’s parents. Different lounges, different cousins, different Christmas trees – but somehow the day always felt familiar. Mostly because there was always ham.”
It was the little things that made the memory. “Every year, no matter which side of the family we were visiting, a Christmas ham would show up on the table. And every year, there’d be leftovers. The best part came the next day. Dad would grab the leftover ham, pull out the soft white bread – the cheap supermarket stuff – and make toasted ham sandwiches for lunch. Nothing fancy at all, just butter, bread and thick slices of cold ham. But, it tasted like Christmas to me. And, maybe some L&P [soft drink] if my sisters and I were lucky.
It’s funny how those small things stick with you. Two different families, two different houses, but the same Christmas ham and the same Boxing Day sandwiches. That’s the part I remember the most,” says the Windows Restaurant’s Executive Chef.
Martino Pulito, Chef de Cuisine, Cucina Porto
Much like the menu at Cucina Porto, Martino Pulito’s most memorable Christmas meal is deeply Italian, anchored by cotechino sausage with lentils. “Cotechino e lenticchie is a dish that has been on my family’s table every Christmas. It is a symbol of warmth, abundance and good fortune. For me, its aroma brings back the sound of home, shared meals, laughter and that comforting Italian tradition of hoping for a prosperous new year. It’s simple, humble and deeply tied to who I am.”
Scott Mills, Head Chef, Sinclair’s
Scott Mills remembers his gran’s Xmas gnocchi like a family heirloom. “The dish that truly defines Christmas for me is the humble, yet unforgettable potato gnocchi. Served in a rich tomato and pork spare-rib sauce.”
The memory stretches back to Nanna’s kitchen, where each gnocco was painstakingly shaped. “My Nanna made it every Christmas lunch, alongside an overwhelming spread of other food. But it was always the gnocchi I thought about all day, and as I got older, all week. She would be up early, making the gnocchi completely from scratch. Even ricing the potatoes with a fork to get the perfect texture. She had this massive wooden table that she’d dust with flour before rolling out the dough and shaping each gnocco by hand, pinching them one by one into little squished pillows. Finally, she boiled them in a 30-litre pot. But only five at a time. Just to keep the temperature perfectly even. And, the sauce – she’d cook it days in advance because it took so long, and because everyone knows sauce tastes even better the next day.
Now that she’s passed, no one truly knows how to make the gnocchi. Or the sauce, exactly the way she did, although my mum has tried many, many times. I still remember the one Christmas I helped her make them. And I’d give anything to go back and really learn her secrets,” says Scott, who features his own take on gnocchi on the menu at Sinclair’s.
Patrick Madden, Chef, Tommy Collins Group
For Patrick Madden, the glazed ham is the undisputed star of Christmas. “Christmas for me is all about the glazed ham. Whether it’s my side of the family or the in-laws, it’s a job I’ve always loved being tasked with.”
Over the years, he’s turned the simple tradition of ham into a creative playground. “I often use the glaze as an opportunity to explore different culinary ideas I’m working on at the time. But, one thing never changes, and that’s the ham. For me, it’s always the triple-smoked Grandma ham from Grange Meats Fairfield. Working with Ben at Tommy Collins, who has just opened Bar Bouni – the new Lebo-Terranean rotisserie spot in Southbank – it’s safe to say this year’s glaze will have a Middle Eastern twist. I know it’s controversial, but I favour the bone-out variety for ease of carving and sharing amongst the family. (If there’s any leftovers!).”
Yammi Cheung, Chef, Caption by Hyatt Central Sydney
Yammi Cheung’s Christmas is wrapped in warmth and tradition. There’s a magic in her grandmother’s wonton noodle soup that instantly transports her to festive mornings. “There’s a cozy, heartwarming magic in my grandmother’s wonton noodle soup that always reminds me of Christmas morning. She was a professional chef, and she passed down a little family secret, a technique that keeps the wontons incredibly juicy, something I still use every day at Talk Shop.”
Christmas, for Yammi, is about connection. “For me, Christmas is about warmth, comfort and connection, and this bowl tastes exactly like home. Sharing this dish at Caption by Hyatt Central Sydney lets me invite our guests into a piece of my family’s story, a tradition that continues to inspire the food I cook today.”
Sean Connolly, Chef, Steak & Oyster Co by Sean Connolly, West HQ
Similarly, for Sean Connolly, Christmas is inseparable from his family matriarch – specifically, the scent of Esther’s Fruit Cake, a family heirloom recipe that he says carries a lifetime of festive memories.
The cake embodies home and celebration: “I still remember my grandmother’s Esther’s fruit cake, made from her handwritten recipe. The smell of Christmas in our house and the final moment of our family gatherings. Those memories of her kitchen, the laughter around the table and that rich, boozy cake inspired me to bring special family-style holiday meals to the menu at Steak & Oyster Co.in West HQ, sharing the warmth and nostalgia of those Christmases with everyone who walks through the door.”
David Vargas, Chef, Mother Vine and East End Cellars
Finally, for David Vargas of Mother Vine and East End Cellars, Christmas is a feast of aromas and energy, rooted in his childhood in Colombia. “When I think of Christmas from my childhood in Colombia, the first thing that comes to mind is the smell. Before I even opened my eyes on Christmas morning, the aroma of tamal, thick hot chocolate and freshly made arepa would fill my great-grandparents’ house.”
The night before was a celebration in itself, a blur of music, dancing and laughter. “The night before was always lively. My cousins and I ran around, playing until we were exhausted, while the adults danced to vallenato, salsa and cumbias that shook the whole house. We finally fell asleep with big expectations for the next day.”
Christmas morning brought warmth, fullness and togetherness. “That breakfast waiting for us, tamal still steaming, arepa warm, hot chocolate bubbling, was the perfect fuel. It gave us the energy to keep playing all day with our new gifts and squeeze every bit of joy from the holiday. I come from a humble, hard-working family, but one overflowing with love and support. And in those Christmas mornings, gathered in a crowded kitchen with music echoing in the background, I learned that the best celebrations are made of simple flavours, shared laughter and the people who make a house feel like home.”