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MBFWA 2014 Beauty Report: Shadows & Light At Toni Maticevski

“The architecture of Toni’s collection is stunning,” said Maybelline’s Nigel Stanislaus, who was in turn inspired to turn to classic Renaissance paintings for inspiration. “We wanted to give the models that same kind of shadows-and-light effect, but they had to be alive – not like a marble statute!”

That’s why, after “spot-cleaning” the face with concealer (Maybelline FITme Concealer) and a foundation brush, Stanislaus reached for the Dream Terra Sun Bronzing Powder, which he dusted all around eyes – winging it sharply up towards the ends of brows to “subtly echo the lines in the collection” – and whisked beneath the cheekbones to carve definition into the face, as well as add warmth. Brows were filled, lashes coated in a small amount of brown mascara (“we took most of the product off the wand first, then jigged it at the base of lashes”) and lips coated in Baby Lips balm, before being sloughed with a tooth brush. “This gets the circulation going and brings out natural colour,” explained Stanislaus. “Toni didn’t want much colour at all on the girls’ faces – he wanted them to look pure, like upper class ladies from another era.”

ToniMaticevskiHair

Image courtesy of ghd

Hair, however, had a slightly naughty edge. “She’s an expensive Parisian it girl,” said Jayne Wild, who was working for ghd. “She has a luxurious blow-dry, but it’s a few days old and she’s been out most nights!” To achieve this effect, Wild prepped hair with ghd Heat Protect Spray and Total Volume Foam (“even if the girls have thick hair, because this gives great grip”), before blow-drying hair super-smooth and setting in pin-curls. Once cooled, hair was let loose and lightly messed up; “we just used our fingers,” noted Wild – “you just run your hands through to break hair up a little and muss it up a bit at the surface.”

And why wouldn’t you want to play with your hair and show off a manicure such as this:

ToniMaticevskiNails

OPI stylist Karon McKendrick-Taylor painted models’ nails with a shade of white or pale pink – the designer himself hand-picked Alpine Snow, You Callin’ Me a Lyre and Passion – and finished with OPI Matte Top Coat. “It makes everything that much softer and subtler,” explained Mckendrick-Taylor. Finally, she applied symbols and letters to nails, using a simple Letraset; “I’ve just added hearts and written out ‘nice girl’,” said Mckendrick-Taylor. “There’s a lot of love in the room today!”

Written by Katrina Lawrence

Katrina Lawrence has specialized in beauty journalism for more than 15 years. After starting her career as the beauty and lifestyle editor of Cleo magazine, she then went on to help launch SHOP Til You Drop magazine, where she held he reins as deputy editor/beauty director for several years. Next came a freelance role, based in both New York and Sydney and writing for titles including madison, Harper’s BAZAAR, Cosmopolitan and Sunday Life. She has also run her own beauty information site, and most recently was editor of premium Australian online beauty magazine. Katrina is one of Australia’s most awarded beauty writers, having won over ten industry awards.
Contact: [email protected]

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